Doubletake, with a new detail

When there’s a pattern that works for you, you just have to make it again and again, am I right? Sometimes there’s a little guilt there because it becomes so easy that you feel like you’re cheating. But you keep going back to it because it fits, it flatters… it’s your best friend – sew to speak.

We all have these little secrets and I so appreciate it when someone (like our darling Dolly Clackett, thank you so much!) shares the love with a tip for a good make. And since I’ve discovered a new one, I will share the wealth too! I didn’t get this done in time for the ‘sew double’ challenge on the Monthly Stitch, but hopefully some of my fellow TMS-ers will see it!

IMG_2727
Vogue 1348

You may remember my Gallery Hop dress. I made it for a party and though the pattern looked kind of complicated, with weird shaped pieces, it went together easily. I like the design because while it’s flared it isn’t gathered, getting its volume from big pleats instead. I do love gathered skirts but sometimes I want a smoother look to showcase the fabric. So when I found another fabric so pretty I didn’t want to scrunch it up, I reached for this pattern again.

IMG_2734
The fabric is called Park Landscape, by Michael Miller; cotton. I washed it first, of course.

This dress looks and feels entirely different from the Gallery Hop dress, since it’s a shirt weight cotton rather than a heavy linen blend and a much darker color palette.

Reed_0059
The Runway Dress. So much fun I think it belongs in a fashion show! Necklace by Kate Spade. Insane shoes by Prada. Artsy photo by my friend Dena Sanmiguel.

Also different is that this time I made the full lining like the pattern suggests, rather than just facings, because in the lighter fabric I wanted the body. And wow – the lining does add body!

IMG_2729
Inside out. I love the neat way the lining attaches to the facings. It takes 5 yards of lace if you want to dress up the lining hemline, by the way. I couldn’t find any to match so I bought an allover lace, sliced it up and gathered a very, very long strip! 

The lining is tiered and gathered like a 1970’s peasant dress. The only change I would make is to use a China silk instead of rayon for the lining. I chose the rayon over cotton lawn because I was afraid the two cottons wouldn’t work well together. You don’t want your lining fighting with your dress – things can get out of control! The rayon feels good against my skin and all, but as the weather gets hotter I’m thinking I may need to put this number away until fall. I think the silk would breathe better. I’m in love with China silk for linings now, especially since my lovely Textile Fabric store is having its semi-annual 50% off sale!

Image 3
China silk. Deliciously light for linings or tops. Yum. I may have to go back for more colors!

Another little detail. The best color match zipper I found for this dress had an ugly pull. No worries. A trip to a thrift store later, I had a 50 cent bit of vintage bling. I glued it on with my trusty ES6000, and now this dress has the prettiest zipper in my closet! Something else to keep an eye out for… the odd bit of jewelry for zippers!

Image 5
Vintage pin, repurposed as zipper pull!

Ironically, I wore this and NOT the Gallery Hop dress when I went out with some girlfriends for a day of – you guessed it – gallery hopping!

IMG_2702
At my favorite shop ever, artist Ellen Calvin’s Loblolly Antiques and Interiors.

 


16 thoughts on “Doubletake, with a new detail

  1. Wow, this is lovely! I have this pattern and hadn’t found the right fabric yet, but I’m really liking this one–I think I need to order some happy Park cotton!

    If I may ask, did you find that the lining (petticoat ruffles, etc) took more fabric than the pattern indicated? I am looking at that 1 yard requirement for the habotai silk and having some doubts — wondering if they accidentally swapped the yardage requirements for the habotai and the organza underlining possibly? Or maybe I’m just confused 🙂

    1. Hi Meg! Thanks! When I read your question I pulled out the pattern to look at the pattern pieces because I couldn’t remember how much fabric I used. It turns out the lining fabric is just recommended for the bodice and pockets – which is why it’s such a little bit of fabric. I agree this is confusing. I think I read it as inter- rather than under-lining and decided I didn’t need it with fabric this crisp. It doesn’t make sense until you read the pattern instructions. This is NOT what I did because I often don’t bother to read instructions but just look at the pictures (Laura, when will you learn?!) but I really should have this time! It SAYS to underline the bodice with organza (sew it onto the wrong side and treat as one layer – this step I think you could skip if your fabric is crisp). Then, after you face the neckline with the dress fabric and attach the silk lining to the facing (which I did do right), you sew the petticoat (underlining in organza, rather than lining in silk) to it and voila! Perfection! Light and fluffy! I really must do this over. In fact, I was just thinking this is the right style for an amazing silk I found… this time I’ll READ and follow instructions! But in a long-winded answer to your question – in my experience you can trust Vogue. Get extra fabric if you like but they’re probably right. Good luck – and post your results!!!

  2. Another beautiful dress! I have nominated you for The Versatile Blogger Award as I really enjoy your posts. Have a look on my blog to find out more information. Congratulations!

    1. Oh my! Well thank you so much Miss Springy! That’s quite a compliment! I’ve been a slacker lately and terribly out of touch as we’ve been busy moving our household, but I’m currently working up a post about the move and a bit of remodeling… another twist on dressing something! So I’ll get right on this!!

  3. I have been coming back to look at this for more than a year now … have the pattern and have found the fabric at fabric.com. Since I live in New Zealand and will have to pay quite a bit for shipping, I want to make sure I get the right quantity of fabric. I notice the Timeless Treasure range of which this is one is 45″ wide. The pattern gives yardage for the dress in 60″ width. Can you tell me if you made this out of 45″ wide and how much to purchase. Thank you.

    1. Wow Pauline! That’s cool! I want to see pictures when you’re done!! I’ve seen yardage conversion charts here and there. I just checked one on dummies.com and it says to get 3-3/8 yards of 45″ for to replace 2-5/8 of 60″. But the thing is, that’s giving you the same volume, or square inches or centimeters etc. Which is what you need if you’re quilting, but for dresses, what you need to consider is the actual length and width of the pattern pieces. So I pulled out the pattern. The body of the dress – not the lining and underlining etc – is just four pieces. The front and back and the front and back facings. It looks to me like the front and back pieces will fit on 45″ fabric, laid end to end, just like the layout shows for 60″ fabric. It’s so long ago now that I made this that I don’t remember in particular – but I don’t remember having any problem. What I’d suggest is that you measure the front and back pattern pieces to the line you’ll cut on for your size to be sure. If that works, then you’re good. Remember to allow more if you want to make the dress longer (never a problem for me!) or if you want to match up the print. So basically you’ll need twice the dress length plus enough for the facings. I almost always end up with leftover fabric when I buy what the pattern calls for. My mom taught me to be creative with layout! But since you’re ordering online, you don’t want to end up paying shipping twice to get an extra yard, so I’d round up I guess. Does this help?

  4. Hi Laurajane

    I love your dress 👗!!!

    I am in the process to make the same dress (V1348) and need…some advice.

    Wondering if it is necessary for the construction of the dress to do
    1. underlining
    2. facing
    3. Petticoat
    Or I can omit all the above and go straight to the dress?

    I prefer light, fresh with a touch of puffy

    Thank you in advance:))

    1. Thanks for your comment! It’s not necessary, in my opinion, to underline etc, depending on your fabric choice. If your fabric has enough body to give you the look you want, just do it! I don’t know how much puffy you’ll get though. I compromised on this one, skipping the organza and using the lining fabric for the petticoat. I’ve also made it in a stiffer fabric without the underlining and petticoat, but still used the facing to finish it off. It’s a great dress. Even now, two yeas later, it’s a favorite. I may just make it again myself! I’d love to see yours when you’ve got it done! What fabric are you using?

      1. Thank you so much…great help!!!

        I am not sure yet of the fabric….wondering if you have some suggestions…
        I like to have a fabric with a little stretch in order to be comfortable and snuggle.
        As for my size, on top I am one size smaller then hips area.
        If I cut size 16…wondering if I have to cut hip area bigger or the pattern has flare and I don’t need to
        So many concerns…questions
        Enjoy your …..precious moments 😀

        smaller the

  5. I think most women make the same adjustment, allowing more room for hips that the designers seem to think we need. What’s with them anyway? Haven’t they looked around? In this case though, you’re probably fine. The dress does flare quite a bit. I’d suggest checking the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces to be sure. Or, you could do what I usually do – add a little width just in case and then remove it if you don’t need it. Fabric choices? Hmm. That’s always the toughest part. There are so many beautiful ones out there. This design is versatile. I think it could work with a silk or taffeta or velvet as well as it did for me in cotton and linen. Add a little stretch and it would be even better. I have a stretch cotton that I’m thinking of for it. But I wouldn’t use a super soft stretch like a jersey. I think the fabric should have some body or it might droop instead of flare! Good luck!

  6. Hi Laurajane

    I have a fabric with some stretch for easier fit (mixed fibers) (it feels like butter)
    Yesterday I cut the pattern…an exciting feeling.

    I will send you a picture when I finish it.

    I have a feeling that it will look…amazing!

    Thank you again for sharing and great inspirations… :))

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s